Dan Graham of Sigurd Wines makes seriously exciting and drinkable wines out of South Australia. Farmed organically since 2014, this Barossa Syrah comes from a single vineyard and shows a fresher, more lifted take on what can sometimes be a pretty full-on style.

There’s plenty of flavour here—blackberries, a good hit of Christmas spice, and a touch of cedar from the oak—but it’s all in check. The palate is concentrated but not heavy, with firm but smooth tannins and great energy. It opens up beautifully over a few hours, so give it a little time.